How marmalade spread across the world

What do a Taiwanese orphanage, inmates of HMP Styal in Cheshire and staff at the British embassy in Amman, Jordan, have in common? They’ve all competed in the World Marmalade Awards. 

The first printed recipe for orange marmalade, an adaptation of quince paste developed in Portugal, appeared in A Collection of Above Three Hundred Receipts in Cookery, Physick and Surgery, a 1714 book by Mary Kettilby.

But it was the Scots – who always know how to make life better by making it unhealthier – who innovated; adding water so it became spreadable and turning it into a breakfast staple (Marma-legend has it the name derives from it being given to Mary Queen of Scots as a seasickness remedy, her servants fretting: “Marie est malade,” but really the name comes from the Portuguese “marmelada”). 

The very British fruit preserve has international roots and now has a global popularity that is continuing to grow. One event has done much to preserve and promote the preserve. The Dalemain World Marmalade Awards, held at the Dalemain country house estate in the Lake District, was set up by Jane Hasell-McCosh 21 years ago but the celebration, aptly perhaps, had a bitter beginning. 

“Tourism was hit badly after foot and mouth, which affected Cumbria and its communities for a long time afterward,” says Beatrice McCosh, Jane’s daughter, who now also works with the festival.

“So this was an effort to bring people back to the area with something a little different. It is a preserve that is historically made in January and February, when not much else is going on and the weather might put people off coming to Cumbria, so it was a good time to hold the event.”  

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Over two decades, the popularity of marmalade has swelled and tangs have changed thanks to increased international flavours. 

“In the first year we had 60 entries and we now get more than 3,000 from around the world,” McCosh says. “We have really noticed the development with the ability to get hold of different/fresh/rare citrus – yuzu, bergamot, meyer lemon and finger limes are now common in the entries.” 

Last year, as well as many from across the UK, there were marmalades from Canada, Taiwan, Brazil, Norway, Colombia, Argentina and Sweden. An Austrian entry used fruit rescued from supermarkets, and Japan sent a coven of marmalades complete with miniature witches’ hats. 

Hitomi Wakamura from Japan took home top prize with her yuzu and pear marmalade. “When you find an exceptional marmalade it is very x-factor. You just know,” McCosh says.

“The team from Fortnum & Mason choose the final winner [which is stocked by them] and this was head and shoulders above the other two.” If you want to try and imagine taking a taste, it’s described as “a medium cut jar that’s a blend of bright, fragrant yuzu with the gentle sweetness of pear”. 

Mccosh also highlights “someone who started a women’s collective in Senegal to all make marmalade together to enter and children in the Czech Republic who made it and then distributed around their village to show people what marmalade was”. 

Besides the marmalade itself and tourism boost, the awards are a fundraiser, and £350,000 from entry fees have been donated to good causes in the area. 

If you want to enter your own marmalade, this is the time to do it. Entries are open and can be sent in or delivered to collection points across the country, from Fortnum & Mason to Tebay Services. 

“The most important thing is using the best fruit possible,” McCosh says. “Entries from hotter climates often have citrus which has been grown in their garden, which is ideal. 

“Marmalade making is such a force for good. Cooking together is so positive. It’s great to give it the platform it deserves.” 

Collection points close on 23 January; entry closes on 2 February. Find more information on the World Marmalade Awards website.

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