Advertisement
News

‘It reminds people of home’: Ainsley Harriott on how food unifies people

Sweet potatoes, mangoes and yams – the TV chef says Windrush changed all of our kitchens for the better

I think people came here expecting that Britain’s streets would be paved with gold – you’d arrive here and everything would be given to you, handed to you on a plate. It wasn’t like that at all.

But I think the thing that really bought people together was food. Food was a great way of reminding people of home. A lot of the time they weren’t able to get hold of the produce.

I do remember growing up as a young child eating things like mangoes that my auntie had wrapped in her clothing. It was wrapped in private clothes hoping that customs wouldn’t go through stuff like that. But they would be able to sneak in things like mangoes, coming from the Caribbean, which tasted like nothing I’d ever tasted before. It was extraordinary.

Food brought people together in places like London, Bristol and Liverpool, where it was highly populated by black people. Suddenly there was demand for their type of food. So you were able to walk down the road in London and go to Ron – I remember what he was like. “Alright love, lovely bit of yam here” – sometimes they were rotten but he would just chop off the rotten bit and give you the rest.

We all take sweet potatoes for granted now but the reality is that people used to look at it and ask if it was the same as what we could call the English or Irish potato back then. The sweet potato was completely alien.

Read more from Harriott about why immigration made everyone’s plates tastier in this week’s Big Issue, available from your local vendor until Sunday

Advertising helps fund Big Issue’s mission to end poverty
Advertisement
Advertising helps fund Big Issue’s mission to end poverty

Never miss an issue

Take advantage of our special subscription offer. Subscribe from just £9.99 and never miss an issue.

Recommended for you

Read All
'How many more children must die?': British Palestinians plead with UK to act as Gaza's people starve
A protest for Gaza and Palestine outside Wesminister.
Gaza

'How many more children must die?': British Palestinians plead with UK to act as Gaza's people starve

'Starmer needs to be more scared of us than Reform': Zack Polanski on how the Greens can outflank Farage
Zack Polanski
Politics

'Starmer needs to be more scared of us than Reform': Zack Polanski on how the Greens can outflank Farage

Tens of thousands of households face a 'triple hit' of benefit cuts as part of Labour's reforms
disability benefits cuts protest
Disability benefits

Tens of thousands of households face a 'triple hit' of benefit cuts as part of Labour's reforms

How a Manchester community welcomed the return of the swifts
Nature

How a Manchester community welcomed the return of the swifts

Most Popular

Read All
Renters pay their landlords' buy-to-let mortgages, so they should get a share of the profits
Renters: A mortgage lender's window advertising buy-to-let products
1.

Renters pay their landlords' buy-to-let mortgages, so they should get a share of the profits

Exclusive: Disabled people are 'set up to fail' by the DWP in target-driven disability benefits system, whistleblowers reveal
Pound coins on a piece of paper with disability living allowancve
2.

Exclusive: Disabled people are 'set up to fail' by the DWP in target-driven disability benefits system, whistleblowers reveal

Cost of living payment 2024: Where to get help now the scheme is over
next dwp cost of living payment 2023
3.

Cost of living payment 2024: Where to get help now the scheme is over

Citroën Ami: the tiny electric vehicle driving change with The Big Issue
4.

Citroën Ami: the tiny electric vehicle driving change with The Big Issue