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Opinion

Looking for a comfort watch this January? The Food Network is here for you

In these stressful times, Lucy Sweet isn’t sure what she would do without this reliably endless stream of blurry old cookery shows

Over the Christmas holidays, there was only one place to go. No, not to the department store to sit on Santa’s knee (I’ve been cautioned by the police about that before).  

Instead, it was much safer to stay at home and watch my favourite channel – the channel hardly anybody else but me watches, somewhere in the Siberian wastelands of Freeview, next to GREAT! and That’s 80s. I’m talking, of course, about Food Network.  

I mean, yes, essentially Food Network is just a bunch of repeats of ancient cooking programmes, and I should probably get a life. But in these stressful times, I’m not sure what would I do without this reliably endless stream of blurry old cookery shows.

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Here, you can see every part of the Jamie Oliver lifecycle, from his post-pubescent ‘pukka’ era and tired dad phase to his modern incarnation as a grumpy health warrior who keeps taking the sugar out of all my favourite snacks. No matter what time of the day or night you put it on, there he is, massaging a chicken and backslapping his old mate Gennaro by a clay oven while his long-suffering wife struggles to contain her rage and Olivers of all ages bounce off the walls.  

Then there’s the Barefoot Contessa, AKA American cookery icon Ina Garten, speaking to us from the past in her palatial home in the Hamptons. She prepares truckloads of crostini and Martinis for her husband Jeffrey, who looks like a kindly professor in a 90s movie starring Bill Pullman and Sandra Bullock. Nothing bad could happen at Ina’s – apart from a coronary from all the butter and salt. She is lovely, twinkly and very soothing, and I just want her to wrap me in a muslin cloth and gently place me in the proving drawer for a nice long sleep.  

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We also mustn’t forget the proper cheffy chefs who got one or two series on BBC Two but didn’t exactly flambé the ratings. Steady, unstarry people like Tom Kerridge and Marcus Wareing, who are about as comfortable on TV as I am plating up a Sole Meunière in a Michelin-starred restaurant.  

They’re all like friends to me, always quietly burbling away on my telly. In winter, though, Food Network really comes into its own. When the weather outside is frightful and the fridge contains two chicken nuggets and an inch of semi-skimmed milk, I feast my eyes on it.  

My favourite thing recently has been to sit there with my mouth hanging open, watching all the festive specials and playing a game of ‘What Year Was This?’ A 30-something Jamie made a large Yorkshire pudding filled with what looked like grapes, Nigel Slater assembled an absurd 90s trifle and an even younger Jamie did despicable things to a goose. 

It’s not just the recipes that give me that warm, nostalgic feeling, though. It’s the innocence of the past, before the world turned into a hate-filled AI dustbin. Everyone merrily uses outrageously expensive things like eggs, flour and fillets of beef the size of a dolphin. They know not of Elon Musk or Ozempic or social distancing.

They are preserved forever in a magical world of middle-class aspiration, freshly chopped herbs and luxuriously seasoned joints of meat. It’s like watching transmissions from a far-off planet, and I will watch more and more until I can’t stomach the sight of another soft-focus gravy boat.  

So, if anyone needs me in these cold, dark days of January, Food Network is where I’ll be.  

Lucy Sweet is a freelance journalist. Read more of her articles for Big Issue here.

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